Administering Medications

**Just a reminder - I am not a vet - if you are uncertain of administer drugs to your animas consult your veterinarian. **

Things to know

1 CC (cubic centimeter) = 1 ML (Milliliter)

15 CC = 1 TBS (well, actually 14.78, but we round up)

Drenching - When drugs are administered orally, this is often called 'drenching'.   It is often done with a syringe - NO NEEDEL, syringe only.  Or a drenching gun.

If you are drenching your goat with large amounts of liquid - always administer slowly - giving the goat time to swallow. Tip their head up slightly, and insert the syringe / dosage into the side of the mouth, not the center.   

Way to administer injections -

SQ or also called SC - Subcutaneous - and injection given under the skin.

IM - Intramuscular - an injection given strait into the muscle.

IV - Intravenous- an injection given strait in the vein

Which method should you use?

Most common ways to administer injections to goats are SQ & IM.   Because goats have a very high metabolism (3-4 times that of a cow) injections given into the muscle usually are not in their system long enough to do their job.  SQ injections move through their system slower, giving the drugs the time they need to work properly.  Most all meds are given to goats via SQ injections.

When to NOT give injections SQ -

All hormonal drugs should be given IM, deep in the muscle to be effect.  These drugs work through the system differently then most other medications.

 Sometimes when a goat is very ill and meds are needed fast for their recovery IM injections may be used instead.  In some cases meds may be given both IM and SQ, to be effect quickly and also over a longer period of time.

IVs are generally only done by your vet, or needed with a goat is on deaths door.

SQ injections are generally given in the 'arm pit' area - right behind where the leg meets the body.  Pull/pinch the skin up and away from the muscle - insert the needle into the side of the 'tent' area.  If you are administering several drugs or on a daily bases like in the case of antibiotics, rotate which side of the goat injections are given on.  You may also spread father from the 'arm pit' area, going up to the shoulder and also over the rib cage.  Rub over the injection site afterwards in a circular motion to help circulate the fluid more evenly.

IM injections are generally given in the neck.  Find the shoulder blade, and shape a triangle in the center of the neck in front of the shoulder blade.  Insert the needle strait into the muscle.

** You may find the rear leg as a suggested spot for IM injections, use caution if administering drugs here as there is a main nerve that runs along and down the leg.  I do not suggest this injection site.

In this picture the pink area suggest ideal SQ site, with green being secondary for when larger amounts of injections are given.  Blue on the neck indicates IM injections sites.

Supplies -  

Syringes - available at most feed stores.  3 ML and 6ML are most commonly used.  12 ML are handy for drenching.  1 ML syringes may be harder to find locally, but are really handy to have on hand if you  have kids.

You will see 2 basic types of syringes and needles - Luer lock, and Luer slip.  Luer lock will actually have a screw type attachment, whereas luer slip will simply push together.

Needles - also available at most feed stores.

What size you ask?  Because there are soooo many !

These are measured in 2 dimensions - length and gage (width or thickness of the needle).   The higher the number on the gage - the smaller the thickness.  So a 22G needle will be smaller then a 16G needle.

Suggested needles size per use  -

SQ injections on adult animals - 18G x 3/4"

IM injections on adult animals - 20G x 1"

SQ injections on newborns - 22G x 1/2"

For blood pulling - 20G x 1" Or 20G 3/4" for Mini's and younger animals - on rare occasion I have needed 18G x 1" for larger bucks. 

** Never use the same needle twice !  When pulling meds from a bottle, use a new needle and syringe.  After administering to one animal, throw it away.  Use a new needle and syringe every time.  Failure to do so can result in infection, spoiled meds, and ill side effects. **

Things to watch out for -

** All injections should be given SLOWLY.  Take your time !  The larger the dosage the slower you should be injecting.   You are inserting a foreign substance into their body - too fast and you will send them into shock causing their heart to stop.  Goats suffering from shock will exhibit tremors or appear to stumble and fall over shaking, unable to stand.  Usually within minutes of receiving an injection.

How to counteract -

Epinephrine - Vet RX drug -  adrenaline, used to counteract anaphylactic shock.

Given IM at 1ML per 100lbs.

A lump may appear at the injection site - this is more common when administering vaccines, and should clear up within a few months.

Occasionally SQ injections sites may bleed immediately after an injection is given.  Don't panic.  Most likely you just hit a capillary in the skin.  Apply pressure to stop the bleeding.

Ovoid using too small a gage needle, as it may not be strong enough for the task and break off in the skin.  Have help restraining the animal to avoid this as well.

I feel injections are something every goat owner should know how to do.  It may mean the difference between life and death if your animal is taken suddenly ill.  Although seemingly scary at first, it really is quite simple and easy to master.  You can do it!  :)

Colostrum

The first 12 hours are the most crucial for goat kids.  They are born with no immune system, they carry nothing over from their dams.  They will absorb immunities from the colostrum, the quality of the colostrum they receive in the first 12 hours will greatly effect the type and strength of immunities for the rest of their life.   If you are fortunate enough have been doing this for years, or have extra colostrum - save the colostrum out of your healthiest, hardiest, oldest does.  Saving and feeding their colostrum to your keeper kids or future dairy does will improve overall health for generations to come.   When it comes to colostrum the thicker the better..

Dose are usually producing colostrum up until about 12 to 24 hours after birth.  I milk out does 3 times  - once at kidding, and twice more 8 hours apart.  I consider these to be colostrum and after that just a transitioning form of milk. 

First fresheners will have the poorest quality colostrum - but still good enough to give kids what they need to survive. For first fresheners I usually just consider the first 1-2 milkings 'colostrum' depending on thickness.  Whenever possible I try to have colostrum on hand from an older doe to give to kids for the first feeding.  Then mix half and half with the first fresheners milk the 2nd feeding.

Heat treating colostrum - trouble shooting

Heat treating colostrum can be a tricky skill to master.  Holding at 135' but no more then 140'F for 1 hour.  Too hot and you will end up with a rubber mess of custard, to low and you have to start all over again.  Small amounts are harder to handle then larger amounts. 

I like to do about 1 quart at a time.  If I'm in a pinch and have less then a pint, I may add raw milk to the colostrum to help it survive the heat treating process.  I will also do this with very very thick colostrum.   You can add water as well - but milk is a much better choice.  Of course strait colostrum is the best, but better to have it milked down then ruined while cooking.

Make sure you have a good working thermometer - or better yet two to cross check with each other if you are having problems.  I heat my colostrum up to 140' in a double boiler on the stove.  Heat this up SLOWLY to avoid over heating and turning to rubber.  I run very very hot water through a thermos to heat it up.  Once the colostrum is at 140, I pour it into the thermose (dump the water out first), and let it sit for 1 hour.  After 1 hour I check the temp, needs to be at least 135' - it's usually right around 138',  cool down to 100' and it's ready to feed kids, or stick in the freezer for next year.

I have alos herd of people successfully using temperature controlled slow cookers for heat treating colostrum.  Place the colostrum in zip lock freezer bags.  Fill the cooker with hot water - enough to float the bags, and set the temp for 135-140'  Check the water temperature when it's reached 135-140 and set the timer for 1 hour.

Bottle feeding 101

Please note the fallowing is how 'I' normally raise my bottle kids, and this method may not be for everyone.

What to feed?

Goat milk is generally used to feed kids - however, if your farm is like ours where goat milk is sold, used for making soaps, and feeding your own family of kids (human) that can leave very little to none at all for the bottle kids requiring the need of a substitute. 

If you are raising on CAE prevention - you will want to pull kids at birth and let them have no contact with the dam - unless she is tested negative for several years, or from a herd that is tested negative for several years / generations.  

Colostrum should be heat treated at at least 135' but no more then 140'F for 1 hour.  Milk should be pasteurized - heated at 165' for 15 seconds.

If goat milk is not available, cows milk is my next choice.  I prefer raw milk from a tested dairy (tested for John's disease ).  My next choice is whole milk from the grocery store.    You should not use skim, or 2% milk as these contain less fat.  The fat in the milk is what helps the kids to break it down and be more digestible.   When feeding cow milk it is not necessary to add things to the milk - I've heard, eggs, sweetened condensed milk,  molasses, and more.  Milk milk milk - it's the best thing for your kid.  Please do not stuff all this unnecessary goop into their diet. 

I do not recommend powder milk replacers, as kids often do poorly on it.  If you are using a powder replacer please carefully read over your label and use as directed.  Many of these are not suitable for kids under 6 weeks of age.  Always always pick something made specifically just for goats, NOT sheep and goats.  If you can, mix the formula half and half with real milk.  Also note that below I feed free choice - however when using a powdered milk substitute you should only feed according to the label.  

The first feeding -

 Those cute little lumps of fur you just finished drying and cleaning are just about to get even stickier and messier then before.  :)

I usually wait around 1 but no more then 3 hours after birth before I give kids their first feeding.  Or whenever they start mouthing around looking for 'mom' or crying.  Trying to shove food down the mouth of a kid who just isn't hungry yet usually just ends in kids screaming and wasted colostrum as it runs down the side of their mouth, plus a messier you.

Some kids are born ready to eat and usually the easiest to feed.  While other may require a little more patients.   For trouble kids who don't want to take a bottle -  Stick the nipple into there mouth - try gently squeezing the sides of the nipple to stimulate a sucking motion and allowing milk to flow out of the nipple.  Making a sucking nosies  - or feeding another kid in front of them may also helps things to 'click.'  Also try rubbing their rump - think of how the kids would be nursing on mom - she would be licking any part of them she could reach, a rubbing motion can help to get things going.

The first 12 hours are the most crucial, goat kids are born with no immune system, they carry nothing over from their dams.  They will absorb immunities from the colostrum. The quality of the colostrum they receive in the first 12 hours will greatly effect the type and strength of their immune system for the rest of their life.

To see more info on colostrum check out my other post - 'Colostrum'. 

After 12 hours their stomachs are starting to change and develop more, less and less of the antibodies are being absorbed, this is when it's time to switch to milk.  

Feeding schedule -

Within the first 12 hours I like my standard kids to eat at least 12 oz of colostrum, ideally 16oz, but if they hit 20oz I call it enough and start the milk early.  If on the other hand you have a slower eating kid - continue to feed colostrum throughout the first 24 hours or until the minimum amount is reached.

From birth - after the first feeding - I offer kids a bottle anywhere from every 2 to 4 hours, depending on the kids.  Each bottle is heated to about 100' - do not heat the milk in the microwave !  Place the bottle in a bowl of very hot water and let it sit 5-10 minutes, gently shake the bottle and check the temperature.  Amount wise - I let them eat as much as they want - comfortably without stuffing themselves - you can usually tell when they are trying too hard to eat more.  In general anywhere from 3 to 8 oz a feeding depending on the kid/size.  They are on this feeding schedule while they are on colostrum or the first 12 hours - which ever comes LAST.

Day 2 -

Technically day 2 starts at less then 24 hours old.  After they have had their colostrum I feed them 5 times stretched over the next 24 hours. - about 5 hours apart.  Usually this schedule only last 24 hours or 5 feedings, and they are ready for 'Day 3' feeding schedule.  However, if you have premie or smaller sized kids, they may need to stay at this schedule for a few days.  If kids are not eating much - less then 4-6 oz a feeding, or you try to switch to less feedings but they are crying in-between feedings, stick with a feeding every 4-5 hours for a few more days, then try day 3 again.

This is when I start switching to feeding milk - sometimes there can be a big difference between colostrum and milk consistency - if you're like me and feed the dams colostrum, but switching to cow milk - mix the cow milk and the colostrum half and half for a few feeds, then 1/4 to 3/4 for a few more, and then full cow milk.  Switching the quality/type of milk too quickly at a young age is likely to cause scours and sick kids.  

If however you are feeding the does milk to her kids, judge for yourself the consistency.  Some does give a ton and kids won't eat it all - freeze some for next kidding up to a year or more.  While other does will give barely enough (first fresheners always give less).  If you find kids are ready for milk with colostrum left over use the does 3rd, 4th or later milking to mix half and half with the colostrum until they are switched over.  Don't be alarmed if you happen to taste her milk and find it revolting, the kids will still love it, and it usually takes does a few weeks after freshening for their milk to taste good.

Day 3 -

This is when things start to get easier.  At day 3 my kids go on a 4 a day feed schedule - once every 6 hours.  They will stay on 4 feedings a day until at least 2 weeks of age, but no more then 4 weeks.  

Day 4 - this is when I start to incorporate meds into the milk.  I use a cocci preventative med that is added to the milk on a daily bases.  Because I feed milk free choice and not at a fixed amount, I also add baking soda to the milk starting here, at the rate of 2 TBS per gallon of milk.  Even if you do not feed milk free choice I would still recommended added baking soda to the milk to help prevent bloat and entero in kids.  I also like to add in some powder probiotics to the milk, and even occasionally milk with yogurt for older kids.   Up until now kids are fed milk at about 100', here is where I start to ever so slowly drop the temperature down to about 80' by around 2 weeks of age.  As kids get older, depending on the weather I may drop the temp again so eventually milk can be taking from the fridge and fed cold - but I only do this in the summer and for kids that are a few months old - and again, temp changes in milk should be done slowly.

If you are not feeding milk free choice, I would encourage you to slowly bring kids up until they are eating at least 2 quarts a day - or a 20oz bottle 3 times a day(remember, this is for standard size kids).  Usually around a month of age they are taking this amount.  I would keep them on 2 quarts a day until weaning.  When eating free choice, kids will consume about 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 quarts a day.

When kids hit 2-4 weeks of age,  I cut them down to 3 feedings a day - about every 8 hours.  They stay on this schedule until they are weaned.   At 2 weeks of age I also start offering free choice alfalfa hay as well, or as soon as they show an interested in nibbling all of their surroundings.  I do not feed kids grain until about 1 month before I want to wean them, or their first fall/winter (about October).

So in overview -

First 12 hours - 12 to 20 oz colostrum (ideally 16oz) divided into small feedings every 2-4 hours
Day 2 - 5 feedings - about 5 hours apart - as much as they will comfortably eat
Day 3 - Move to 4 feedings a day - once every 6 hours
Day 4 - Start Cocci meds (if using), Baking soda and probiotics.
2-4 weeks - move to 3 feedings a day, every 8 hours, start on alfalfa.
4-6 weeks - continue increasing milk - as much as they will eat, or three 20oz bottles day until weaned.

How long until weaning? 
When you wean is kinda up to you, everyone does it differently.  I would never wean a kid before 12 weeks, I have seen kids that do fine on that - however, for a keeper kid in my herd to be raised for dairy - I would never wean this early either.  I am a firm believer in feeding milk.  I have not seen anything else grow kids out as well as milk, sure they will grow without it, but not as fast, not as full, and not as healthy. 

When you are ready to wean there are different ways to do it- simply decrease the amount they are eating each feeding slowly until it's nothing at all.  Adding water to their milk, so it becomes more and more water and less and less milk.  Drop a feeding once a week, or even cold turkey.   I would not recommend just stop feeding milk all at once unless your kids are over 3-4 months of age and started on grain / hay well.  Because I feed free choice anywhere from 5 to 8 months of age, or 80+ lbs kids generally wean themselves.  However, be very wary of a younger kid 'weaning themselves' as this could be a sign of cocci.

Lambar training

Somewhere between day 2 and the first week of age - or as soon as they are taking the bottle themselves-  I start introducing the lambar.  Kids are taught / trained to during from a nipple in the side of a bucket that has a straw down into the milk.   Lambars are kept full and in the kid pens 24/7 so they always have access to milk.  They are checked and re-filled 2-3 times a day.  Some kids are slow, and I don't see them snacking on the bar unless it's feeding time - ie the lambars are being re-filled.  For this reason I re-fill them 3 times a day, at the same times ever day to insure kids don't get to hungry  between meals - even though there is still milk in the bucket.

I use lambar nipples for my kids as they will all be eventually on the lambar bucket.  It can be very hard to switch types of nipples once your kids get started on one.  Lambar nipples will fit a wide assortment of bottles - plastic watter bottles, soda bottles. Glass beer or wine bottles - I use these the most, and also vintage glass soda bottles.  They will even fit just inside a larger top bottle - like on a juice or milk jug.  My favorite for when traveling with kids is the single serving milk bottle available at most grocery stores and gas stations - lambar nipples fit right into the top.   Whatever nipple you go with - I also like to stick a piece of rubber band down the side of the nipple - so it ends up stuck between the nipple and the bottle - this allows for air to escape while the kids are gulping it down.

Also Vicki McGaugh has shared how she raises kids from birth to kidding in the south in this link -

http://www.dairygoatinfo.com

Kidding Time ! What to have on hand and getting through it.

Kidding check list -

Essentials - must have check list


Lots of towels / blankets - for drying kids off

Napkins / paper towels -

Iodine (used for dipping cords)

Dental floss or strong string (used for tying cords)

Sterile lubricant (available at most farm stores)

Flashlight - if you're like me and have no electric in your barns :)

Bottles / nipples - even if you don't intend to bottle  raise your kids - you never know when I kid won't nurse or the dam may reject a kid.

Bo-se - for kids born with week or wobbly legs - **note, it is normal for kids to have some bendy legs at birth and usually the straiten on their own within a few days**  This is for kids born with unusually bendy legs, bowed legs, weak or inability to stand.   Dosage I use is 1/4 to 1/2 ml per kid depending on size/breed.

Molasses - about 1/2 cup in 1 gallon warm water - fed to the doe after kidding as an energy booster.


Extra's (just in case) check list

Kid or lamb tubing kit -  I still don't have one of these - never used. but still something nice 'just in that rare instance you need one'.

Kid / lamb snar rope - for pulling out stuck or ill positioned kids



Optional -

Heat lamp and light bulb

Box or tube for carrying kids back to the house

Rubber gloves - if you wish to wear while assisting births (I never use these)




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How kiddings usually go down here -  (you will find more info on this in Pregnancy doe care part 2 post)

Fresh straw in the kidding stall - I check does every 2 hours as they are close to their due dates.  Once I am fairly certain kidding will be within the next 12-24 hours the doe is locked in the stall.  I may sit out with them and wait, or continue to check on them every 1/2 to 1 hour.

I will have my kid with me or in the stall - I carry very little with me to the barn - all on the first list.  I will use the lube before I go in and assist.  After the first kid is out there is usually enough goo on me and the doe that I no longer need the lube.

As the doe comes into labor I wait until I actually see her start to push  - sometimes babies come out fast, if not, I will insert a few fingers to see what I can find - something gummy (hooves) and something sharp (teeth) are normal.  If not - I will push the baby back in slightly and re-position.  If it's a tricky position I may hold the kid in place as the doe pushes it out.

**When assisting - ALWAYA pull with contractions**  as contractions stop - stop pulling and wait for another.  Pulling outside of contractions can tear the uterus. Whenever you reach in to assist it is normal for this action to stimulate more contractions causing the doe to push against you.

In general kids should be out within a few pushes - 2-3 strong ones.  Often, small and correctly positioned kids will shoot out in 1-2 pushes.  If the doe is straining and pushing and nothing is coming out or nothing is felt inside, it may be time to go in and assist.

As soon as the kid is out - and sometimes even while coming out - I clear and clean off the face and air way.  I like napkins best for this part as the dry paper really grabs the goo away fast.  I take fresh clean straw and wipe off the rest of the goo from the kids.




In the house -
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(Keep in mind that I bottle raise my kids - I like to separate the does and kids at once so they do not bond and it is easier on the does.)

Once I feel the kid is fairly clean its are wrapped in a clean towel and take it into the house (I have an assistant do this while I stay with the mom)  If you don't have an assistant keep the kids in a box or basket near by.

Once in the house new born kids are loved and rubbed - I do LOTS of rubbing with a towel to help dry them faster.  Rubbing is a great way to increase blood flow & circulation and let them know they are not alone in this world.  :)

After they have started to look around a bit and maybe attempt to stand I take care of the umbilical cord.  Some cords are short (under 1") and fine to be left at the length - but always always wipe / clean / dip the area with LOTS of iodine. I usually take a cotton ball and glob it all over their belly and cord.  If cords are longer - after the iodine wipe, I tie them off about 3/4 - 1 inch from the belly with dental floss.  Clip the cord about 1/2 " down from the tie - over all I don't want the cord to be much longer then 2" from the belly, but not closer then 1".  

I do not like to feed kids right away - I usually wait until they start looking for food - or about 1-3 hours after birth.  They will start to mouth things and bump them with their nose and head trying to tell you they are hungry.



Meanwhile - back at the barn -
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Sometimes kids are born very close together - hardly one is out and the next is on top of it.  While other times the doe may take her time and you will have a good 20-30 minutes between babies.  However, if 40 minutes have passed and the doe does not seem to want to continue to push, she may be done.   If you have out hay and other goodies for her to be distracted by it may just be a longer wait between babies.

After 40 minutes - if the doe appears done I will give her a belly bounce.  Facing the opposite way of the doe - wrap your arms around her barrel and grab your hands together under her belly (like giving her a big hug).  Bump your locked hands up into her belly - start in the center and work your way back towards her udder. I will do this several times - if you feel something hard, or she feel solid or heavy, their may be another kid inside, however if she feels more like a bowl of jelly - most likely she is done. Belly bouncing like this is also good to help encourage and release the afterbirth.

Once I am fairly certain the doe is done kidding I give her a bucket of warm molasses water - think energy drink -  She is de-wormed and given the nicest leaf of alfalfa in my barn and some grain as well.



Colostrum -
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I always raise on CAE prevention - which means the colostrum must be heat treated before it is fed to the kids.  If I have some extra in the freezer I pull it out to thaw as the doe kids, otherwise I will milk her out as soon as I am able.  Sometimes there is break between kids where the doe is comfortable and standing - I will take this opportunity to milk her out.  Milking out the doe will also help stimulate more contractions.   If the doe is having a harder kidding time I wait until the doe is done before milking.

Colostrum is heat treated on a double boiler - I bring it up to but not over 140' (must be at least 135').  Over 140' and you will have a rubber like custard. Make sure you have a good working thermometer handy.  I then pour the colostrum into a pre-heated (having hot hot water run through it) thermos.  This is kept on the counter for 1 hour.  After which the temperature is check again (still needs to be at or over 135') to insure proper heat treating.  This is then cooled down to 100' and fed to waiting babies.

If you have a very small amount of colostrum (under 1 pint),  or very thick colostrum - you can add a small amount of milk to it.  Raw goat milk is best - but in a pinch whole cow milk from your grocery store works as well.  Don't use water.  This is added to the colostrum before heat treating to prevent it from over cooking.  Yes, it will weaken your colostrum down and not be as good for the kids as strait colostrum, but it is also much much better then ruining the batch and having no colostrum.



Bottle time -
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Kids must have colostrum within the first 12 hours of life if they are to survive and be healthy.  After 12 to 24 hours their bodies stop being able to absorb the antibodies from it, in which case it is now safe to feed milk.   I want all kids to eat at least 12 oz of colostrum, but more then 20 oz is not needed.  If your doe gives more than the kids need/eat - freeze it and safe for next year / or next kidding.  Does are only giving real colostrum their first 3 milkings.

Kids raised here are fed once every 2 to 4 hours for the first 12 hours after birth, or until they have had adequate colostrum.  I feed them as much as they will eat at each feeding - until they are 'full' but don't let them stuff them selves.   Usually between 2 and 6 oz a feeding.  Smaller kids will eat smaller meals more often - larger kids with eat more less frequently.  If the kids begin to cry - most likely it's time for a bottle.



The After Math - for does
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Up until this point my does are fed their grain once a day.  Here is when I break their daily grain ration into 3 parts  - with an increase (usually about 1 cup increase the day they kid), and continue increasing slowly over the next few weeks as their milk production climbs.   I feed 3 times a day the first 2 weeks or more after kidding - because I milk them 3 times a day for the first 2 weeks or more (they are fed at milking).

It can be a bit normal for does not to finnish their grain the first day or two, or possibly lose interest in it all together.   As long as they still have a healthy appetite for their hay I don't worry about them too much.  Higher stress or harder kiddings can take longer to recover from.  I do not ask my does to get on the milk stand either - they are milked on the ground the first week after kidding or until they seem ready to jump up.

I will add a handful of yeast culture, and a tsp of probiotics to their grain for an extra boost for the next 2-4 weeks.   Most does will peak in their milk production anywhere from 2-8 weeks from their kidding day.



For more on bottle feeding kids - check out my post 'Bottle feeding kids'.
Or if you are wanting to dam raise - check out my post - Dam raising kids.

How to tell if your goat is fat ?

I see this all the time - people thinking their goats are fat or over weight.  I look at the same goat and more often then not think the opposite.  So here are a few pointers on how to correctly judge if your goat is overweight, underweight or right on the money.

First off - don't look at their bellies.  Healthy goats *should* have a wedge shape about them - with their rumens (stomaches) being the widest part.  As goats eat they swallow a lot whole and in long pieces, which stretches out their stomaches to be very wide at times.  As the hours after eating go on, goats bring their food back up and chew it again (cud), breaking into smaller pieces and more compact, causing their stomaches to appear now much smaller.   In this way it may appear that your goat is fat and overweight just a few hours after receiving their daily hay ration.  And for the same goat just hours before feeding may appear skinny, or in good weight.  So - Don't look at their stomaches to tell you if they are over weight, in truth goats carry very little fat on their mid section.

Fat is generally carried in the shoulder and neck area.  However, this area can be a tricky to judge on unless you know your goats and their lineage.  As many dairy breeds, especially from heavier milking lines, will naturally have a lot of loose and large wrinkles in their skin at the neck and chest area.  You may try and see if you can grab a large fistful of flesh between the front legs and lower chest area to help tell.

I however find the best and easiest way to tell is by the backbone, just before the hips.  Run your hand along the top of the back, back and forth right before the hips on your goat.   You should always be able to find and feel the back bone.  If you can't feel the bone, or it takes some digging to find, you goat could stand to loose some weight.  If however, the bones stand out and may even feel sharp to touch - your goat is underweight.  The bones should be easy to find/feel, but yet have a nice layer of skin over them and not feel sharp for a goat with a healthy weight.

Bringing home your new goats

Anytime you bring home new goats here are some things to watch and make sure are taken care of -

Worm you goats - moving to goats is stressful, stress weakens their immunity which in turn brings on a higher worm load.  Worm them now before the load gets out of hand.

Probiotics - for the first 2-3 days or even a week or 2, and a sprinkle of probiotic power to the top of your goats grain or mineral.  Not getting grain ?  Try just drenching them with a few table spoons of yogurt once a day.   Probiotics is excellent for improving health in a stressed goat.

Diet change - Watch out for this one.  Before bringing you goat home, be sure to talk over with the previous owner the goats current diet.  Be sure to make all changes SLOWLY.

Don't forget to leave out a pan of baking soda for you new goats.  This will help prevent bloat as your goats settle in.

Goats will most likely cry the first few days to a few weeks, until they get to know you and their new home.  Remember - they love routine  and thrive on it, set up a new routine and stick to it to help your goats settle in quicker.

If you already have goats, it's a good idea to leave your new goats in a separate pen for the first few days to a week.  If possible, let them share a fence line so they can 'get to know' each other.   A little head slamming to figure out the pecking order is normal, just don't let it go too far.

Breeding season - Getting ready

Just about that time of year here in NE!  So I get a LOT of questions about how and when to breed goats - hoping to cover most of that in this post.

For my herd - breeding season actually starts about a 6-8 weeks before I plan to do any actual breeding with my goats.  Breeding takes a lot - goats should be at there absolute healthiest ever by breeding season - to insure ease of breeding, successful settling, and a wonderful kid crop in 5 months time.

Minerals play a big part in fertility - don't skimp out for the summer.  Copper and Bo-se especially.

The first thing to do come June - check those fence lines.  Buck rut generally starts as early as July and continues on until the last doe is bred - or later.  Generally by March they have calmed down.   Nothing knows how to find a whole in the fence like a buck in rut with a doe in sight.  :)

6-8 weeks before breeding season starts - 
My nubians and full sized dairy goats tend to be much more needy in the mineral department then my kinders and mini breed goats.   Despite what the labels says for copper content - I still bolus my goats on the side.  I will talk about this more in a copper post - but this is about breeding!  My standard goats are bolused twice a year and my mini's once.  I plan bolusing for my bucks 6-8 weeks before breeding season starts - as I always notice the most health improvement in my herd in this time frame after bolusing.  Bo-se (selenium supplement) also helps a great deal - not only on it's own but also to help goats absorb copper - which is why I give bo-se shots and copper bolus always on the same day.


****Note - Some have suggested the selenium supplements may cause bucks to go sterile for a short time (4-6 weeks) so be sure to have this one done well before breeding season starts.



4-6 weeks before breeding season starts -
Here is when I bolus and Bo-Se my does, just after the bucks.
Worm them goats!  What wormer and when to worm depends a lot on your area and certain herd.  Most of us will agree though - worm your does before breeding season - so you don't have to worry about worming them while pregnant.   I usually start planning and preparing for breeding season in July, and that is when my herd needs worming anyway.   Remember - worm once, and again in 10 days.  Pull goats off pasture for 12 hours (overnight works well) after worming - to minimize re-infestation of your pasture land.  Give plenty of time between the last worming and breeding for the wormer to work out of the goats system so there will be no lingering side-effect that may cause problems in developing goat kids.

If you're going to make any diet changes for better health now is the time to get them going in the herd. A good 4-6 weeks to work into there system and give them a good health kick is a great way to boost fertility.

Now what ?  Sit back and wait - and plan !

Does carry kids for 150 days.  When do you want kids born?  Plan 150 days before for your breeding season.  Most does cycle from July through Feb/March.   If your does aren't cycling- check for mineral deficiencies or something lacking in their diet.

Signs of heat in a doe
Usually around the beginning of July I start checking for signs of heat and try to clock cycles for each doe.  Does cycle once every 18-21 days.  Heat last for about 1-3 days.   Once you know a does heat cycle they tend to stick with it.

What to look for?  Discharge - Generally clear and stringing - like that of a raw egg white.  May turn more white towards the end and look more like tooth paste.  There is not a LOT of discharge generally - so if you're not looking under tales 1-3 times a day you can miss it.

Tail wagging - somes does will wag/wave their tales a lot more when in heat then usual.

Does may also become more verbal and yell a lot - or even mount each other - or go around blubbering like buck in rut.


Are the bucks ready?
Usually by 6-8 weeks of age bucks are ready for breeding - that doesn't mean that they 'should' be used for breeding.  Make sure your boys are healthy.  Bright, and glossy coat - not course or balding.  No runny noses.  Good growth on younger bucks and of a good age and size.  Don't make the mistake of thinking just because your buck is smaller will mean he will throw smaller kids.  If he is a Nubian buck, he will throw nubian sized kids (7-9lb does 8-10lb bucks).  Doesn't matter if he is 2 months or 2 years.

Signs of rut will be gross - bucks will spray there face and legs with urine and become a blubbering mess.  They may also become slightly more aggressive - following you around, pawing with the leg or even jumping up.  

**Always be careful with a buck in rutt*  Don't keep a mean or overly aggressive buck, it's not worth the risk of an attack - and there are so many nice ones out there!

Take special care of bucks in rutt - keep a watch on there face and the back of their front legs.  If urine builds up too much in these areas they may develop hair loss and/or rashes occur.  Keep them clean.



Drugs you may need for breeding season - 
Lutalyse - vet RX - used to abort does from an unwanted pregnancy.  i.e.  buck broke into doelings pen.   Lute needs to be given at least 2 weeks after breeding, but before 2-3 months - the sooner the better.  USE GLOVES for this one ladies and don't get it on you.  Dosage is always 2 ML and given IM deep into the mussel.  Lutalyse will cause the cervix to dilate and the does to abort or re-absorbe the fetus.  Doe may give signs of heat after lutalyse, however lute does not cause does to cycle and if does are bred while in 'false heat' from lute they may still not become pregnant.

Chlorhexidine  - you can use the diluted form purchased as a teat dip at tractor supply.  Or by the undiluted form from ValleyVet.com.  This is a great gentle and moisturizing disinfectant - for use on bucks with skin problems or urine scald.

Tetanus and CD&T Vaccines

On my list of vaccines for goats - the CD&T vaccine, a much debated topic in the goat world.  Some do, some don't - every herd will be different and this is something you will need to decide for your self.

What is a CD&T vaccine ?
This vaccine works as an aid in prevention of enterotoxcimia types C & D and also for tetanus.

Most always this vaccine is given for the Tetanus side of things - After all Entro is highly preventable, and the vaccine is only in their system for 6-8 weeks.   You can see more about this in my Entrotoxcimia post, but this one is about tetanus.

The ugly T word - and yes, it's everywhere, in your soil - wether you think so or not.  I my self have lost 2 goats to tetanus in the past 9 years.  Tetanus is a very real concern for goats - not only are they susceptible to it, but it is a very slow and painful way to die.   More then 80% of goats who contract tetanus do not survive, even when treatment is imminent.

I do everything in my power to prevent tetanus in my herd - however, for me, this doesn't not include administering the CD&T vaccine.

*Gasp*  You say?  What?! How can you say you prevent it?  And why ever not give it?!


Yes, I know, this is not the typical answer you will find and I urge and encourage you to do your own research and study into the matter - perhaps you will find different then I - but here is why I don't use the CD&T vac in my herd.


Simply put - It just isn't good enough.


When I first started into goats I wanted to raise them 'naturally' which meant no vaccines.  When I lost my first goat to tetanus it made me stop and reconsider, so I did some checking around on the vaccine -

What I found -
Goat breeders that had vaccinated their entire herd year after year still lost goats to tetanus
In some occasions kids died from a having a bad reaction to their first CD&T vaccine
Older goats were more susceptible to suffer from analeptic shock from the CD&T vaccine when received year after year - and on rare occasion died from it.

As I asked around in neighboring herds and I was finding just as many goats that had died from side effects caused by the vaccine as had from tetanus itself.

I also found a lady in KY (who no longer raises goat - but had for many years), an herbalist who was doing things 'naturally' with no vaccines. She believed in her research that if goats were left unvaccinated as kids they would develop a natural immunity or stronger resistance to tetanus.  I do not know whether or not this is true - however, both goats I have lost to tetanus were under a year of age.  I also see more stories were kids have died from tetanus then adults.

At this point in my herd - it just doesn't make sense to vaccinate.

I believe prevention is the best way to keep tetanus out of your herd.  For some the vaccine is an aid in doing that.  For me, it generally comes in the form of a bottle of iodine.  Disinfect, disinfect, disinfect.  Both cases of tetanus in my herd could have been prevented if I had only been more precautions and used a disinfectant.  The first time was from a hoof trimming.  I did not know that tetanus could be picked up and enter into the system through freshly trimmed hooves.  Now, whenever I trim hooves I have a bottle of iodine in my back pocket.  After every hoof is trimmed it gets a quick poor over of iodine.

The second was from a castrating on a buck kid - again, I had failed to use a disinfectant for the task.  Now all sacks, tools, bands, etc, are soaked in iodine before castrating.

Every wound, scratch, cut, scrap and scab, on my goats that I see is cleaned.  While iodine is my favorite disinfectant, there are other good ones out there too -

Chlorhexidine - use this one for tender areas like udders and sensitive parts
Peroxide - one of the best - though used full strength can cause scarring.  I mix with water and use it as a flush for bad wounds - then coat with iodine and a wound powder to help seal out dirt.
Betadine - very similar to iodine, though not considered to be as strong.

Deep wounds usually heal best when left open - that is unwrapped or bandaged - and cleaned often.


Well now that you've read my $0.02 on the subject, go make up your own mind -
Best wishes to you and your herd for however you choose to fight against this horrible illness in goats.

What to expect from your goats

A lot of times I see people jumping into the goat world without fully knowing what they're really getting into.  Goats are one of the most misunderstood and terribly understudy creatures, so most often your first impression of goats isn't a true one.  The point of this post is to help you understand what you can expect from your goats and how much your goats will need from you, care wise.

Very basically put -

Goats are heard animals, and highly social with each other, so it is always better to have 2 or more goats together.   Dogs, people, other animals hardly ever cut it - in order to have one goat, you need another goat.  :)  Goats together are hardier and healthy, a goat by itself can die of loneliness.

Staking a goat out - I know many just want to stake a goat out in the yard / pasture / weed patch and let them go to town and mown your lawn.  While goats can be excellent lawn mowers with proper care - they do not tie out well.  Goats are mischievous and rambunctious and quickly find them selves in knots and tangles and even strangled by their ties.   Do not stake your goat out unless you can be there to watch their every move.

A common misconception about goats is that they are smelly dirty animals and will eat anything,  while goats are actually very clean and terribly picky about what they will eat.   Goats do like to explore through taste - much like a two year old who wants to put everything in their mouth.

Don't just buy any goat - be picky and know what you're getting into.  Bucks will be smelly during rutt and breeding season, and have some revolting habits you might not want to be around if you're just looking for pets.  If you run your buck with your does they may be pregnant as often as once every 5 months, which can be very hard on the does.  Does should only be bred as often as every 8-12 months.   Buck kids are capable of breeding as young as 4-6 weeks of age, though few may take a little longer 8-12 weeks.   Many will pull their bucks out from the herd and pen them separate - a good idea to control breeding.  Even if you don't need a second buck or ever use him  - still - the best pal for a buck is another buck.

Wethers are the best option for pets and weed eaters.  No buck mess, and not as needy diet wist as a doe.  They also have the longest life expectancy of about 12-15 years.  In comparison buck usually live out 8-10 years, wear as does live a bit longer averaging 10-12 years.

Many start with does, the idea being have them as pets or weed eater and then if you decided to down the line you can breed them and have kids, either for fun or milk.

Whatever you decide know that an adult animal already grown out is the best way to start.  Kids can be difficult to grow out having high demands on their nutrition, and will be much more costly their first year.


What to expect care wise?
No, you can't just turn your goats out to pasture and expect them to live off the land without any care - even if you just want weed eaters and not milking does.   Very minimal basic care for your goats should include -

Fresh, clean water - daily

Free choice hay - choose a hay based on your goat's diet needs - I will discus the different types of hays and which will suit your goats best in the post titled 'Choosing the right hay'.

Hoof trimmings - about once every 6 weeks hooves need to be trimmed to keep their feet flat and prevent leg problems down the line.

Free choice loose minerals - not a mineral block - goats are too picky and take too long to chew off what they need from a block.  Pick a loose mineral to leave out for them.  Goat have a very high nutritional requirement for minerals - which I will discuss in post titled 'Minerals"

Free choice baking soda - goats can be prone to bloat, usually brought on by diet changes or over eating.  Leaving out a pan of baking soda will help to keep things moving and help to prevent bloat - from basic cases to server that may even cause death.

Worming - most goats will need to be wormed at least once or twice a year.  Make sure the wormer you pick works against the parasites that are a problem in your area.

Grain - I see a lot of people feeding grain to their goats when they don't need it, and often time the wrong type of grain.  Don't be quick to feed your goats grain - even if they seem hungry 'all the time'.  Goats are munchers and will nearly constantly be eating.  Sweet feed is probably the worst type of grain you can give your goats, so steer clear.

Don't for get a shelter!  Goats need a way to get out of the wind, rain, snow and weather.  To stay warm or cool as needed.