Breeding season - Getting ready

Just about that time of year here in NE!  So I get a LOT of questions about how and when to breed goats - hoping to cover most of that in this post.

For my herd - breeding season actually starts about a 6-8 weeks before I plan to do any actual breeding with my goats.  Breeding takes a lot - goats should be at there absolute healthiest ever by breeding season - to insure ease of breeding, successful settling, and a wonderful kid crop in 5 months time.

Minerals play a big part in fertility - don't skimp out for the summer.  Copper and Bo-se especially.

The first thing to do come June - check those fence lines.  Buck rut generally starts as early as July and continues on until the last doe is bred - or later.  Generally by March they have calmed down.   Nothing knows how to find a whole in the fence like a buck in rut with a doe in sight.  :)

6-8 weeks before breeding season starts - 
My nubians and full sized dairy goats tend to be much more needy in the mineral department then my kinders and mini breed goats.   Despite what the labels says for copper content - I still bolus my goats on the side.  I will talk about this more in a copper post - but this is about breeding!  My standard goats are bolused twice a year and my mini's once.  I plan bolusing for my bucks 6-8 weeks before breeding season starts - as I always notice the most health improvement in my herd in this time frame after bolusing.  Bo-se (selenium supplement) also helps a great deal - not only on it's own but also to help goats absorb copper - which is why I give bo-se shots and copper bolus always on the same day.


****Note - Some have suggested the selenium supplements may cause bucks to go sterile for a short time (4-6 weeks) so be sure to have this one done well before breeding season starts.



4-6 weeks before breeding season starts -
Here is when I bolus and Bo-Se my does, just after the bucks.
Worm them goats!  What wormer and when to worm depends a lot on your area and certain herd.  Most of us will agree though - worm your does before breeding season - so you don't have to worry about worming them while pregnant.   I usually start planning and preparing for breeding season in July, and that is when my herd needs worming anyway.   Remember - worm once, and again in 10 days.  Pull goats off pasture for 12 hours (overnight works well) after worming - to minimize re-infestation of your pasture land.  Give plenty of time between the last worming and breeding for the wormer to work out of the goats system so there will be no lingering side-effect that may cause problems in developing goat kids.

If you're going to make any diet changes for better health now is the time to get them going in the herd. A good 4-6 weeks to work into there system and give them a good health kick is a great way to boost fertility.

Now what ?  Sit back and wait - and plan !

Does carry kids for 150 days.  When do you want kids born?  Plan 150 days before for your breeding season.  Most does cycle from July through Feb/March.   If your does aren't cycling- check for mineral deficiencies or something lacking in their diet.

Signs of heat in a doe
Usually around the beginning of July I start checking for signs of heat and try to clock cycles for each doe.  Does cycle once every 18-21 days.  Heat last for about 1-3 days.   Once you know a does heat cycle they tend to stick with it.

What to look for?  Discharge - Generally clear and stringing - like that of a raw egg white.  May turn more white towards the end and look more like tooth paste.  There is not a LOT of discharge generally - so if you're not looking under tales 1-3 times a day you can miss it.

Tail wagging - somes does will wag/wave their tales a lot more when in heat then usual.

Does may also become more verbal and yell a lot - or even mount each other - or go around blubbering like buck in rut.


Are the bucks ready?
Usually by 6-8 weeks of age bucks are ready for breeding - that doesn't mean that they 'should' be used for breeding.  Make sure your boys are healthy.  Bright, and glossy coat - not course or balding.  No runny noses.  Good growth on younger bucks and of a good age and size.  Don't make the mistake of thinking just because your buck is smaller will mean he will throw smaller kids.  If he is a Nubian buck, he will throw nubian sized kids (7-9lb does 8-10lb bucks).  Doesn't matter if he is 2 months or 2 years.

Signs of rut will be gross - bucks will spray there face and legs with urine and become a blubbering mess.  They may also become slightly more aggressive - following you around, pawing with the leg or even jumping up.  

**Always be careful with a buck in rutt*  Don't keep a mean or overly aggressive buck, it's not worth the risk of an attack - and there are so many nice ones out there!

Take special care of bucks in rutt - keep a watch on there face and the back of their front legs.  If urine builds up too much in these areas they may develop hair loss and/or rashes occur.  Keep them clean.



Drugs you may need for breeding season - 
Lutalyse - vet RX - used to abort does from an unwanted pregnancy.  i.e.  buck broke into doelings pen.   Lute needs to be given at least 2 weeks after breeding, but before 2-3 months - the sooner the better.  USE GLOVES for this one ladies and don't get it on you.  Dosage is always 2 ML and given IM deep into the mussel.  Lutalyse will cause the cervix to dilate and the does to abort or re-absorbe the fetus.  Doe may give signs of heat after lutalyse, however lute does not cause does to cycle and if does are bred while in 'false heat' from lute they may still not become pregnant.

Chlorhexidine  - you can use the diluted form purchased as a teat dip at tractor supply.  Or by the undiluted form from ValleyVet.com.  This is a great gentle and moisturizing disinfectant - for use on bucks with skin problems or urine scald.