I hear it asked often - how long does it take to milk a goat?
Well - it depends. If you're just starting and still learning how to milk it will take some time. I think our first milking took about 20 minutes. I will also depend on your goat - some are easier to milk then others. Depending on teat size and placement. Also some have stronger orifices or sphinkter making it harder to push the milk out. On the other hand - having weaker ones can also be difficult - causing the milk to push more easily up and back into the udder instead of flowing out. The quantity she is giving is also something to consider - it will take longer to milk out a full gallon then it will a half.
Once you get it down, the actual milking takes less then 5 minutes. I can milk most of our does out in under 3 minutes. If you include the time it takes to get the doe out and up on the milk stand - feed her her grain and let her eat it up while you milk and finnish after, it's about 5-10 minutes a doe. Some are slow eaters :)
This is pertaining to hand milking - I've never used a machine.
Monday, September 24, 2012
Thursday, September 6, 2012
How to - Drawing blood
I'm not going to do much of a tutorial on this as I know there are already a bunch of great ones out there on the world wide web. Here is a popular one - and the one I learned with -
http://goatconnection.com/articles/publish/article_151.shtml
Blood drawing isn't for every goat owner - some of us are a little more nervous about it then others - needles, blood and jugular veins, oh my! But for the performance herd on the larger number scale it can be quite costly to have the vet run out every time you need a sample.
Why would you need to draw blood?
Many goat tests are run off a blood sample -
If a CAE free herd is important to you it's recommended to test once or twice a year even. Pregnancy tests on your does to see if they've settled, and many more.
Once you get the hang of it it's quite a simple procedure. I have found the recommended 1" x 20G needle works best in most cases. I use this most always on everything - its easier to buy a case of all the same for larger herds. But if you want a low down on what to use -
The 1"x20G is Perfect for standard size does -
Bucks have a lot more muscle and thickness to their necks and it may be harder to find the vein. I have used a 1"x18G needle and a 1.5"x20G and 1.5"x18G needle with successes. I do not recommend using anything lighter or shorter then the 1"x20G for bucks. It would be easy for them to snap a smaller needle off in their neck - not fun.
Mini's and younger animals are quite the opposite - having thiner and finer necks usually. With these the vein is more readily available near the surface of the skin and a 3/4" length needle will work fine. I still use a 1" usually - just don't plunge it in all the way as it goes through the vein and you get a syringe full of air.
Most blood samples are stored in the red top vacutainer tubes - 10 mL size. I usually get mine from Amazon -
http://www.amazon.com/Vacutainer-B-D-Red-Top-mL/dp/B0018EKKX4
My first time out for a blood draw we had about 20 head to do, so I got in my practice. I did shave necks as recommend that first time. Now I only shave or trim the hair usually on the bucks and only if it's when they have their winter coats in. Otherwise, it's usually easy enough to find without a shave.
http://goatconnection.com/articles/publish/article_151.shtml
Blood drawing isn't for every goat owner - some of us are a little more nervous about it then others - needles, blood and jugular veins, oh my! But for the performance herd on the larger number scale it can be quite costly to have the vet run out every time you need a sample.
Why would you need to draw blood?
Many goat tests are run off a blood sample -
If a CAE free herd is important to you it's recommended to test once or twice a year even. Pregnancy tests on your does to see if they've settled, and many more.
Once you get the hang of it it's quite a simple procedure. I have found the recommended 1" x 20G needle works best in most cases. I use this most always on everything - its easier to buy a case of all the same for larger herds. But if you want a low down on what to use -
The 1"x20G is Perfect for standard size does -
Bucks have a lot more muscle and thickness to their necks and it may be harder to find the vein. I have used a 1"x18G needle and a 1.5"x20G and 1.5"x18G needle with successes. I do not recommend using anything lighter or shorter then the 1"x20G for bucks. It would be easy for them to snap a smaller needle off in their neck - not fun.
Mini's and younger animals are quite the opposite - having thiner and finer necks usually. With these the vein is more readily available near the surface of the skin and a 3/4" length needle will work fine. I still use a 1" usually - just don't plunge it in all the way as it goes through the vein and you get a syringe full of air.
Most blood samples are stored in the red top vacutainer tubes - 10 mL size. I usually get mine from Amazon -
http://www.amazon.com/Vacutainer-B-D-Red-Top-mL/dp/B0018EKKX4
My first time out for a blood draw we had about 20 head to do, so I got in my practice. I did shave necks as recommend that first time. Now I only shave or trim the hair usually on the bucks and only if it's when they have their winter coats in. Otherwise, it's usually easy enough to find without a shave.
Sunday, September 2, 2012
Myths and Misconceptions Part 1 - Multiple births
My first post on 'myths and misconceptions' about dairy goats. I ran across a lot of these first starting out into goats. It took me about the first 2-4 years to sort through them all - at least I 'think' I've sorted through them all. :) These are mainly to help newcomers into the goat world and knowing what to truly expect from your goats.
Many times I get ask from potential first time buyers - how many kids there were at birth. Usually this is because they have heard of the multiple birth misconception -
If a goat is out of twins, (triplets, etc) - they will be more likely to have twins (triplets, etc.).
Now - there may be a crumb of truth in this (multiple birth genetical?), but for my herd, in our 8 years - I haven't seen any proof.
In my experience -
The number of kids at birth is based on -
1) How healthy your goats were at the time of breeding.
2) How many times the doe has kidded.
3) How stress free were the first few weeks for the doe after breeding.
And 4) - if any flushing methods were used.
Starting with #1 - goat health - I can't say enough about this. I don't know how many times I've had people approach me with a goat they thought was no good - didn't grow right, doe wouldn't come into heat - wouldn't settle after breeding - low milk yields, bad tasting milk, etc. etc. etc. We're all so quick to blame the animal, when about 9 out of 10 times it's simply because their health was not were it should be or their nutritional needs were not being met - sometimes as simple as worming. They will only preform as well as their condition, diet and environment allow. If your goats are not at the tip top shape and performance levels you want - it's time to dissect your feed and management plan and find out what your goats really need.
#2 - age and how many pervious kiddings the does have had. First fresheners will be more likely to have fewer kids then at any other time. It is unusual to see quads or more at births before the 3rd kidding - though not totally unheard of. That's just the way it is. Younger animals are still growing and maturing their bodies just aren't ready for high kid yields yet.
#3 - stress free first few weeks after breeding for the does - she may be bred but she isn't pregnant yet - it takes about 7-14 days after breeding for the eggs to implant into the uterus. Of the 4 points I am stating here, stress free is usually the last thing I worry about. Goats are pretty hardy in their home environment. Stress free would be anything short of developing an infection, or a dog attack, etc.
#4 - Flushing. The most common way to flush is with grain. The method is that you feed the doe grain starting anywhere from 2 - 4 weeks before breeding. The sudden increase in feed causes the body to release more eggs and help with higher number of kids. You then stop feeding grain once she is bred. You can also flush by switching to alfalfa from grass hay - or sudden pasture - anything that will be more of a lush diet then what the doe is used to. This type of flushing needs to be done carefully and slowly so as not to make the doe sick with sudden diet change. I personally have never had much successes with this method of flushing. I choose to flush using minerals - high amounts of copper starting one month before breeding - for our herd I simply plan my copper blousing 1 month before breeding season starts. Added selenium - a Bo-se shot ideally 1-2 days before breeding. I have better successes rates this way and I don't have to worry about making the does sick or fat with access feed.
What to expect?
After I've covered these and given you some ideas - you may still be wondering how many kids to expect at birth - what is the 'normal' amount of kids?
For first fresheners - singles to triplet births indicates good healthy stock.
Anytime after a first freshening I concider twins and triplets to be the 'norm' or a sign of a healthy herd.
If I see a single birth that is not from a first fresher dam it is most always because one of these points, usually #1. Single births may also occur more in elderly stock - From what I have seen in other herds this is not usually the case. For my own experience our oldest doe at this time is only 9 (giving quads nearly every year), so I can't really say.
After the third freshening is what you start to see quads and quints. This is when you know your over scrutinizing planing is paying off. High multiple births of quads or more may not occur (or occur as often) without using a flushing method. But flushing alone and you most likely will not get quads or higher births without having does in tip top shape and overall health. You may only see twins and triplets without flushing and that is perfectly normal.
Do not blame it on the doe or buck being only out of twins or a single birth. Year after year I have raised kids out of singles, twins, trips, quads and even quints side by side without seeing any difference come kidding time year after year. My quints have given me singles and my singles have given me quints - all depending on these 4 points.
Many times I get ask from potential first time buyers - how many kids there were at birth. Usually this is because they have heard of the multiple birth misconception -
If a goat is out of twins, (triplets, etc) - they will be more likely to have twins (triplets, etc.).
Now - there may be a crumb of truth in this (multiple birth genetical?), but for my herd, in our 8 years - I haven't seen any proof.
In my experience -
The number of kids at birth is based on -
1) How healthy your goats were at the time of breeding.
2) How many times the doe has kidded.
3) How stress free were the first few weeks for the doe after breeding.
And 4) - if any flushing methods were used.
Starting with #1 - goat health - I can't say enough about this. I don't know how many times I've had people approach me with a goat they thought was no good - didn't grow right, doe wouldn't come into heat - wouldn't settle after breeding - low milk yields, bad tasting milk, etc. etc. etc. We're all so quick to blame the animal, when about 9 out of 10 times it's simply because their health was not were it should be or their nutritional needs were not being met - sometimes as simple as worming. They will only preform as well as their condition, diet and environment allow. If your goats are not at the tip top shape and performance levels you want - it's time to dissect your feed and management plan and find out what your goats really need.
#2 - age and how many pervious kiddings the does have had. First fresheners will be more likely to have fewer kids then at any other time. It is unusual to see quads or more at births before the 3rd kidding - though not totally unheard of. That's just the way it is. Younger animals are still growing and maturing their bodies just aren't ready for high kid yields yet.
#3 - stress free first few weeks after breeding for the does - she may be bred but she isn't pregnant yet - it takes about 7-14 days after breeding for the eggs to implant into the uterus. Of the 4 points I am stating here, stress free is usually the last thing I worry about. Goats are pretty hardy in their home environment. Stress free would be anything short of developing an infection, or a dog attack, etc.
#4 - Flushing. The most common way to flush is with grain. The method is that you feed the doe grain starting anywhere from 2 - 4 weeks before breeding. The sudden increase in feed causes the body to release more eggs and help with higher number of kids. You then stop feeding grain once she is bred. You can also flush by switching to alfalfa from grass hay - or sudden pasture - anything that will be more of a lush diet then what the doe is used to. This type of flushing needs to be done carefully and slowly so as not to make the doe sick with sudden diet change. I personally have never had much successes with this method of flushing. I choose to flush using minerals - high amounts of copper starting one month before breeding - for our herd I simply plan my copper blousing 1 month before breeding season starts. Added selenium - a Bo-se shot ideally 1-2 days before breeding. I have better successes rates this way and I don't have to worry about making the does sick or fat with access feed.
What to expect?
After I've covered these and given you some ideas - you may still be wondering how many kids to expect at birth - what is the 'normal' amount of kids?
For first fresheners - singles to triplet births indicates good healthy stock.
Anytime after a first freshening I concider twins and triplets to be the 'norm' or a sign of a healthy herd.
If I see a single birth that is not from a first fresher dam it is most always because one of these points, usually #1. Single births may also occur more in elderly stock - From what I have seen in other herds this is not usually the case. For my own experience our oldest doe at this time is only 9 (giving quads nearly every year), so I can't really say.
After the third freshening is what you start to see quads and quints. This is when you know your over scrutinizing planing is paying off. High multiple births of quads or more may not occur (or occur as often) without using a flushing method. But flushing alone and you most likely will not get quads or higher births without having does in tip top shape and overall health. You may only see twins and triplets without flushing and that is perfectly normal.
Do not blame it on the doe or buck being only out of twins or a single birth. Year after year I have raised kids out of singles, twins, trips, quads and even quints side by side without seeing any difference come kidding time year after year. My quints have given me singles and my singles have given me quints - all depending on these 4 points.
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